Wachauer Marille — fresh, as nectar, or in a warm dumpling
The Wachau apricot has its own protected name and, locally, something close to religious status. Angerer's orchard runs from the cycle path up to the first vine terrace, and in the three weeks of July when the fruit comes in the whole farmyard smells like jam. Outside the season you eat it preserved: Marillenknödel rolled in buttered breadcrumbs, nectar poured over ice, or a schnapps you should probably decline before a further twenty kilometres.
Racks right by the terrace and they refilled all four of our bottles without being asked.
Fast service, we were back on the road in twenty minutes.
Nobody blinked at four people in lycra. Portions sized for riders.
Charged the battery over lunch, no charge for it.