Grüner Veltliner from the jug, with Liptauer and Schweinsbraten
A fir branch over the gate means the cellar is open and the wine is the grower's own — that is the whole legal theory of a Heuriger, and Steinbügel has been hanging its branch above Dürnstein for six decades. Food comes cold from a counter: paprika-spiked Liptauer, Verhackertes, roast pork, dark bread, pickles. The Veltliner arrives in a quarter-litre glass and tastes of white pepper. Sit at the long table; you will be talking to strangers within ten minutes.
Racks right by the terrace and they refilled all four of our bottles without being asked.
Fast service, we were back on the road in twenty minutes.
Nobody blinked at four people in lycra. Portions sized for riders.
Charged the battery over lunch, no charge for it.