Spinatknödel in brown butter with grated Graukäse
A Hofschank is a farm licensed to feed strangers, and Berger has been doing it since 1971 on the sunny terrace side of Olang. The knödel are made the morning you eat them from bread that was yesterday's loaf, spinach from the field below the barn, and a shower of Graukäse — the sour grey cheese that outsiders fear and locals defend fiercely. Three dumplings, brown butter, chives. Nothing else needs to happen.
Racks right by the terrace and they refilled all four of our bottles without being asked.
Fast service, we were back on the road in twenty minutes.
Nobody blinked at four people in lycra. Portions sized for riders.
Charged the battery over lunch, no charge for it.