Bauernspeck cut by hand, with rye Schüttelbrot
Four generations of the Oberhollenzer family have hung pork legs in the same larch-beamed smoke chamber above Rasen. The rub is a family argument that has never been settled — juniper, garlic, laurel, black pepper, and a proportion of salt nobody writes down. What arrives at the table is a wooden board, a knife, and the instruction to cut your own slices thinner than you think you should. Ask for a glass of Vernatsch and sit outside; the Antholz valley opens straight ahead.
Racks right by the terrace and they refilled all four of our bottles without being asked.
Fast service, we were back on the road in twenty minutes.
Nobody blinked at four people in lycra. Portions sized for riders.
Charged the battery over lunch, no charge for it.